Kintsugi in the Danube Delta
Becoming the golden thread that weaves experiences into meaning.
It takes around 13 hours to reach the Danube Delta from where we live in Timisoara, Western Romania. Passing through Transylvania, crossing the Carpathians into the south to reach Bucharest and then the flat, mostly agricultural green and yellow land of Dobrogea - the region that’s home to the Danube Delta.
We live in a flat area of the country, however, Dobrogea looks and feels different. If not for no other reason that it’s dotted with windmills. My husband told me how one time they arrived late in the area. And because it was so dark, they could only see the red lights flashing simultaneously. It looked like an approaching alien invasion or the apocalypse.
Once in Dobrogea, the most diverse region of Romania with over 19 groups represented from Greek, Russian, Macedonians, Armenians, Turkish, and so on, you’re a boat transfer away to the Danube Delta, UNESCO protected biosphere, a unique spot in Europe and home to over 320 species of birds, 955 plant species, and 3.450 animal species.
By now, you’ve probably sensed my deep affection for this place. Here’s why it captured my heart.
Fishing 🎣
The main thing that makes it worth going to the Danube Delta, at least for our family, is fishing. I’m not the biggest on fishing in the family. My husband is. He simply loves being on the water, casting, finding fish, catching them to then release them.
While in the Danube Delta, I went a few times with him to fish. Going by boat on the small and larger channels, I learned that the dark waters were a sign of health because of the minerals and plants that thrive in them. I was casting for pike and perch, catching mostly weeds from the bottom and getting the lure hooked in the branches of nearby willows a couple of times.
Eventually, we found perch on a smaller channels, not too deep, with tall walls of reed on the sides and a lace-like border of yellow water lilies. I caught 3 one day, 7 the next, and on the final evening out, I stopped counting. But I caught over 15.
Being on the boat and fishing invites total presence. Fishing is like a meditation, requiring the same gentle patience and present-moment awareness. It’s a wonderful way to let go, to be present and attuned to nature.
The Food
Another activity we’ve enjoyed in the Delta was eating.
We’ve tried so many types of dishes, all of them fish based. Although I’m not the biggest fish eater, I loved the fish-based soups - both the borscht and the storceag, fish based with veggies, sour cream, and dill. I also enjoyed all kinds of local fish smoked, fried, marinated, made into pate, grilled. Sometimes with polenta, sometimes with a fresh salad or even potatoes in a Romanian variation of fish and chips.
By far, the best meal was eating turbot, a gigantic and very flat fish that lives in the Black Sea. We had it cooked in the oven with a side of salad and polenta, with a chilled glass of Chardonnay.
Day Trip to the Black Sea 🌊
One day we transferred on one of the main branches of the Danube, Sulina, to reach the wild beach with some greenery, a few cows, shells, and dark brown waters which give the Black Sea its name. What should have been a peaceful afternoon was interrupted by an unexpected ladybug invasion.
Contrary to the general expectation, we did not have any issues with mosquitoes - as in never had to use repellent- however we’ve got badly bitten by innocently looking ladybugs. We cut the trip short and left the beach after lunch.
On this day, while going back to our guesthouse it hit me what a truly fantastic place the Danube Delta is both because of what it offers, but also because it’s a gateway to the Black Sea without the hustle and bustle of the Black Sea resorts further south.
Local Experiences ❤️
On one evening, we had a visit from a small local NGO of Lipovans. They are Russian ethnics that came to the region more than 300 years ago. Hearing them sing songs in Russian and watching them dance in their traditional attire, it suddenly dawned on me that both the Danube Delta and the dry part of Dobrogea form a peaceful region in spite of being the most diverse in the country.
There are never news about issues between groups clashing, although some of them could easily pick a reason to fight like the Greeks and the Turks.
Next time we’re in the region, I’d like to experience more of the local and diverse cultures. I suspect there’s a lot of beauty and depth waiting to be found.
Ideal Place to Relax
The rest of our time was spent relaxing, reading, cross stitching.
It’s a great place for families. If for no other reason because for the better or worse, you’re stuck together. There are few places one can walk to, and all longer distances can be covered only by boat. No boat, no movement.
The kids had a blast. Although in their case, the main factors that played a role was the little pool on the property and the other kids who happened to be there. My only fear was that their running around while playing all kinds of invented games would result with one of them in the water. None did. Until the very last morning when one of the girls reached out to grab a toy and stepped off the solid ground and fell straight into the water. She loved it!
Become the Golden Thread 🪡
From the Aperol Spritz made by mistake with palinka I had on arrival, to having to mentally adapt to being less mobile, to being in awe watching the sun go down in this paradise, and the love and connection felt toward others and all that’s around, the Danube Delta trip was wonderful.
Like the Japanese art of kintsugi, where golden lacquer transforms separate pieces into something more beautiful than the original, the Danube Delta invites you to become the golden thread that weaves diverse experiences into personal meaning. It’s an invitation to be present and to be creative, tapping into joy and freedom.